Drawing of a table for a stationary circular. Making a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands

– a necessary and useful tool in the arsenal of a home craftsman. It is especially necessary for those who work a lot with wood. To make a circular saw on your own, all you need is a great desire, the necessary tools and the ability to work with metal.

Serious tool

A self-built circular saw can be a stationary or tabletop model. At their core, they are one and the same. The devices differ only in the height of the frame. What height to choose will depend on the intensity of use of the workplace. If the saw is rarely used, then it can be made in a tabletop version. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled and free up space in the workshop for other work. If a craftsman constantly works with wood, then a stationary circular saw is more suitable for him.

The stationary structure consists of several main components: a table, a gear disk, a motor, an adjustable side stop and a shaft.

To make it you will need:

  1. Sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 8 mm.
  2. Metal corner 45x45 mm.
  3. Electric motor.
  4. Metal disc with teeth (diameter 400 mm).
  5. Ball bearings.
  6. Welding machine.
  7. Wooden block.
  8. A piece of plastic or laminate.

Making a circular saw with your own hands will be much easier if you first draw up a drawing of the future structure and indicate all the necessary dimensions. All parts are manufactured in accordance with the drawing and then assembled into a frame using a welding machine.

ABOUT longitudinal cutting of rolled products.

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Assembly of a stationary structure

The main part of the saw is the table. The tabletop must be made of sheet metal. Its dimensions depend on the preferences of the master. The main thing is that the circular saw with your own hands is stable and comfortable to work with. If additional space is needed to install other devices, the surface can be covered with a sheet of thick plywood (Fig. 1).

Particular attention must be paid to the height of the guide. It is most convenient when the guide protrudes above the table by 120 mm. Experience shows that with this arrangement it becomes possible to process boards not only in width, but also in thickness.

Figure 1: A sheet of thick plywood is ideal for covering the surface of the countertop to accommodate additional accessories.

To make a guide for a circular saw, you will need 2 pieces of metal corner and a clamp that is welded to them. The metal part is deliberately made from two parts of the angle. The solid angle will guide you when the saw is working. You need to screw a wooden block to the corners using bolts and self-tapping screws, and attach a piece of plastic or laminate 120 mm wide to it. The length of the laminate piece should match the length of the table. This part should be set at an angle of 90° relative to the tabletop (Fig. 2).

A DIY circular saw should be height adjustable. In some designs, the table can be adjusted, but it is more convenient for work when you can raise and lower the saw itself.

A single platform is required to install the motor and shaft. It should be installed on one axis in the form of a rocker arm. It is fixed with a piece of bolt with a diameter of 15 mm, which is welded to it. On the side of the saw you need to weld a metal plate in which you first make a hole. Its shape should be oblong along the direction of the rocker. A bolt will pass through it, onto which a wing with handles should be screwed. The saw clamp is ready. If there is a need to adjust the height, the wing is unscrewed, the saw is aligned with the ruler and the wing is screwed back on. When using a disk with a diameter of 400 mm, you can process boards up to 240 mm wide (Fig. 3).

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Make other options

Figure 2. A piece of laminate must be attached to a wooden block, the angle of which should be 90° relative to the tabletop.

A do-it-yourself circular saw can be made manually. The easiest way to make it is from a grinder, making some improvements to its design. On the grinder you need to install an axial handle and a sliding stop.

To make a sliding stop, 2 pieces of corner will be needed. They are located on the sides of a disk with teeth, which replaces the abrasive wheel. The corners are attached with a gap of 3-4 mm. They are connected at the front and rear with bolts and nuts. To obtain clearance, washers must be used. The bottom edge of the corners should be rounded. Thanks to this, they will not cling to the objects being processed.

A do-it-yourself circular saw made from an angle grinder is equipped with a sliding stop. A clamp is attached to the body. It is made from metal tape. Its screed should be located at the bottom. A galvanized strip with a thickness of at least 1-1.5 mm is attached to the tape, on which a hole must first be made for the sliding stop bolt. Using washers, gaps are established between the working part and the side parts of the stop. The gaps must be the same size.

An axial handle is attached to the gearbox housing. To do this, the gearbox is disassembled so that you can determine at which points to make 4 holes for small bolts. The handle is made from a piece of pipe or rod and should have the shape of a staple. Its width is slightly wider than the master’s palm. At the ends with which it will be attached to the gearbox, it is necessary to drill holes for the bolts. It is not worth flaring the ends of the tube so that the handle does not bend during operation.

A piece of rod or tube protruding forward should be secured under the handle. Flare the end of the tube and make a hole for the axle 4-6 mm thick. The hole should be 4 mm larger. To make it convenient to work, a gap of at least 100-150 mm is left between the rod and the handle.

Figure 3. Diagram of a disk for a circular saw.

The next stage is the manufacture of the adjusting rod. To do this, you will need a piece of rod with a diameter of 4-6 mm. The end of the pipe is bent in the shape of a loop and slightly flared. Using washers at the front end of the stop, the same gap is established along the entire length.

The part of the rod that will fit into the hole on the handle must be threaded. Before inserting the rod, screw the nut onto it. The other nut is screwed on after assembly. The nuts will provide adjustment of the cutting depth. If necessary, they need to be released or tightened.

Stationary type circular saws are quite expensive on the market. However, if you wish, you can make the model yourself. To do this you will need a standard set of tools. A welding machine is used to install the frame. To fix the saw blade, you will need a drill. Before assembling the device, it should be taken into account that the design of circular saws can vary greatly.

Hand saw model

(stationary) made with your own hands is quite simple. First of all, you need to assemble the table. Metal profiles are used for this. The ends of the workpieces are connected using a welding inverter. The saw blade is directly attached to the holder. A simple stationary circular saw made from a manual one is assembled with a small-width pulley.

In some cases, a casing is used to protect the device. The support for a circular saw is often of the rack type. Modifications with cam quills are very rare. Commutator motors are installed with a power of 3.3 kW. In this case, it is more expedient to make the platform from a steel sheet.

Washing machine devices

It is quite easy to assemble (stationary) with your own hands from a washing machine. A motor is used for this purpose. It is recommended to select a diameter up to 30 cm. The pin is used with a crank drive. Many experts recommend installing guides up to 33 cm long. The working plate is placed on the front of the frame. In this case, the feed mechanism does not need to be installed. To secure the frame, a metal corner is used. The flange is most often installed behind the caliper. At the end of the work, it is important to fix the flywheel.

Modifications with one stop

Very often, specialists assemble a circular saw with their own hands. You can find a wide variety of drawings for designs with one stop. Many of them involve the use of cam rests. Experts first recommend starting assembly with the frame. The legs in this case can be made from wooden blocks.

After installing the working plate, guides are installed. A horizontal shaft must be secured above them. A corner is attached to the edge of the platform, and the casing is rarely used in the design. There are also many models with a power rest. They are large in size. The bearing row is usually installed above the working plate. In some cases, the support is welded near the pin.

Models with multiple stops

With several stops, it is quite difficult to assemble a circular saw with your own hands. The modification drawings indicate the need for a guide pin. Assembly of the model begins with a frame blank. For this purpose, profiles are selected from stainless steel. It is also important to note that the stands can be fixed using a welding inverter.

The work plates are installed last. Sometimes a circular saw (stationary) is made with your own hands with a 3 kW commutator motor. A flywheel is used to adjust the position of the steady rest. In this case, the bed must be fixed on racks. A caliper is used to change the position of the platform.

Drawings of a crank ratchet device

A stationary circular saw is made with a cranked ratchet with your own hands (photo shown below) using a rack and pinion support. In some cases, a feed mechanism is used. First of all, during assembly, it is important to install the lower frame. For this purpose, two stainless steel profiles are selected. To install the bearing row, you will need a welding inverter.

It is also used to connect workbench guides. The pin is installed only with a cross member. It is soldered on the edge of the table. At this stage of assembly it is important to calculate the distance to the saw blade. On average it is 22 cm. A wooden fence is used to protect hands. It is important to fix the guides behind the counter. The steady rest is most often installed behind the flange. In order for the flywheel to rotate freely, a small lining is required. It is fixed behind the guides.

It is also important to note that modifications without a caliper are very common. Their pins are used with gearboxes. To protect your hands, a small shield is installed. The bed is most often used with sharpened ends. The lunette in the design is fixed on the platform. If we consider simple models, then guides can be used from wood. The commutator motor is used for both 3 and 5 kW. The work of assembling the saw ends with the installation of stops.

Dimensions of saws with two steady rests

With two steady rests, it is very easy to assemble a circular saw (stationary) with your own hands. The dimensions of the table in this case depend on the diameter of the saw blade. The width of the platform, as a rule, does not exceed 35 cm. In order to assemble the modification, the bed is first installed. Metal profiles are selected at 3.4 cm. The pins are mainly installed behind the steady rests.

In some cases, the beds are placed on two stops. The quill is used with a worm gear. If we consider large-sized modifications, they use wide racks. It is also important to note that it is more advisable to install the lower block at 56 cm. To adjust the steady rest, a rotary handwheel is used. The saw blade is placed directly behind the caliper.

Modifications of the TS 820 series

You can make a saw of this series yourself. For this purpose, the frame is installed with a width of 34 cm. The corner for the stop is easiest to make from a metal profile. The bearing row is attached to the stand with screws. Many experts advise installing the steady rest last. The guides for the saw are selected at 34 cm.

The easiest way to make a tool rest is from a wide block. The commutator motor is installed on the saw with a power of 3 kW. The gearbox is attached to a stand on the platform. The saw blade is fixed to the drive shaft. For normal operation of the modification, the caliper must be firmly fixed. Barriers can be used to protect your hands.

How to make a model like TS 825?

If you have the tools, you can easily make this stationary circular saw with your own hands. A wide variety of drawings for this design can be found. However, the most common are two-rest circuits. The bearing row in this case is installed behind the cross member. Not a lot of power is selected. The pulley should be installed in the central part of the working platform.

In this case, a feed mechanism is not required. A metal corner is used to fix the plate. Saw guides are used at low heights. For free movement of the steady rest, a flywheel with a rotating mechanism is used. The bottom block must be well protected. It is also important to pay special attention to the installation of the bed. The legs for the structure can be made from ordinary bars. The saw blade itself is placed near the central post.

Assembly of the GKS 190 series device

This circular saw (stationary) is assembled with your own hands only using a 4 kW commutator motor. The bearing row can be installed behind the rack. A small flywheel is used for this purpose. It is also important to note that the pulley is allowed to be used at 5.6 cm. The gearbox is most often installed behind the steady rest. All this is necessary for free rotation of the shaft. In this case, the bed is easiest to make from bars. It is more advisable to select racks of small width.

The flange is usually installed at the edge of the platform. In this case, the drive shaft should not come into contact with the guides. The barrier tape is most often mounted behind the A-pillar. The width of the platform should not exceed 68 cm. The easiest way to install the shield is with screws. However, it must be at a safe distance from the gearbox. Particular attention should be paid to the lower supports. To increase stabilization, it is recommended to use only wide profiles. The height of the caliper in this case should not exceed 30 cm.

Modifications of the GKS 156 series

This circular saw (stationary) is difficult to assemble with your own hands. First of all, it is important to note that a 4 kW motor will be required. In this case, many experts advise using only steel guides. They should be installed behind the front pillar. The tool rest is most often made from a block. It is also important to note that the design will require a wide stop.

It is more appropriate to install the shield near the rear support. The bearing row is mounted together with the stand. At this stage of work, it is important to calculate the exact distance to the saw blade. The minimum gap allowed is 3 cm. The frame is most often used with four legs. To install the guides, a welding inverter is used. The lower block is mounted under the gearbox. It is important to securely fix the rest, and in this case a ratchet is not required.

How to make a model like GKS 144?

The specified circular saw (stationary) is assembled with your own hands on a motor with a power of 2.2 kW, and the bed is selected at 40 cm. The bearing row is fixed in the front part of the stand. It is easiest to use guides that are small in width. It is also important to note that one flywheel will be required to assemble the device. It must be attached to the rotating mechanism. It is more expedient to make the shield from a steel sheet. In this case, a casing is not required. The legs themselves can be installed around the corner. The steady rest for the saw is not very wide. The carrier plate is fixed last.

Assembly of the K-CS 1300 series device

This circular saw (stationary) is quite easy to assemble with your own hands. The bed for the model is used at 34 cm. In this case, the bearing row is installed behind the stand. The saw blade is placed directly after fixing the guides. Particular attention should be paid to the commutator motor. In this case, its power must be at least 4 kW.

The flange is used with a steel cover. It is more advisable to install the hand rest behind the front pillar. For this purpose, two holes are made on the working platform. It is important to fix the steady near the motor. There is no need to install a saw blade guard. The lower block should be immediately selected not of great height. It is more expedient to use the caliper with a roller mechanism.

Modifications of the K-CS 1325 series

The devices of this series are assembled using 3 kW commutator motors. According to experts, it is better to use wooden handholds. It is also important to note that the support should be installed on top of the workpiece. In this case, the ratchet is not installed on the saw. The gearbox is used with one bracket.

Primary processing of wooden materials often involves cutting them. To perform this, you can use several types of tools - from manual to electric models. The most effective is the one you can do yourself.

Circular saw design

At the first stage, you should understand the design features and determine the optimal manufacturing scheme. It directly depends on the characteristics of the work performed, the dimensions of the workpiece, and the type of wood. Only after this can a circular saw be made with your own hands.

The main component of the saw is the disk, on the end surface of which the cutting teeth are located. They can differ not only in geometric dimensions, but also in the angle of inclination relative to the plane of the disk. To perform cuts, the design includes an electric motor. It can be connected to the disk directly (via a shaft) or using a torque transmission system. This tool is designed for making longitudinal and transverse cuts; in some models it is possible to make angular cuts relative to the plane of the workpiece.

Before making a circular saw with your own hands, you should select the processing depth. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the equipment classification:

  • small - from 40 to 46 mm;
  • medium - from 55 to 55 mm;
  • large - from 65 to 70 mm;
  • professional - from 65 to 140 mm.

For housework, it is enough to choose a model with a small or medium cutting depth. If complex processing of materials is required, a hand-held circular saw will be required. To make vertical cuts, you can make a homemade sawmill.

For woodworking, it is necessary to choose discs with a positive sharpening angle. Otherwise, the wood fibers will not be cut, but rather torn.

Designing a table for a circular saw

The main component of the future design is a table made by yourself. It will house the power unit, cutting tool, control unit and additional components to perform the work.

There are two fundamentally different schemes for constructing a table. In the first case, it is designed to work with a hand saw. The main task of the support frame is to fix the workpiece and the ability to change the direction of cuts. Most often, wooden components are used to make a table with your own hands - chipboard sheets, slats and timber.

The sawmill is one of the types of circular saws. The difference lies in the lower location of the disk. In this case, the table serves as a bed. It houses the power unit, there is a disk mounting unit, as well as a control system.

During design, the following points must be considered:

  • electric motor power. For housework, it is enough to choose a model with a power density of up to 800 W;
  • depth of cut. Depends on the geometric parameters of the disk;
  • rotation frequency. To form an even color, this characteristic must be at least 1600 rpm;
  • location of the control unit. It should be as far away from the disk as possible.

The dimensions of the homemade design depend on the size of the parts being processed. To make a manual sawmill, it is recommended to use a metal sheet as a tabletop. Additionally, stiffening ribs are mounted at its base.

When choosing a factory model of a saw to complete a table made by yourself, you should provide for the possibility of mounting it at the bottom of the table top. To do this, you will need to make an additional transition mounting block.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

Drawing up a manufacturing scheme depends on the actual availability of consumables. Most attention needs to be paid to the design of the table. In addition to functionality, it must be stable and withstand maximum pressure without changing its position.

First you need to make a tabletop with your own hands. To do this, markings are made on the sheet material. It is best to take the tool and mark the cutout locations based on its dimensions. Using a router, a recess is made for mounting the tool. Then you need to install additional components:

  • support for workpieces. This is a wooden strip that is attached to the tabletop. Its position can be changed relative to the disk;
  • grooves for support. They are milled onto the surface of the tabletop;
  • yardstick. It is installed at the leading edge of the disk. Necessary for forming blanks of a certain width and length;
  • clamps. They are an additional component. With their help, the part is rigidly fixed on the table for processing its surface with hand tools.

After this, according to the actual dimensions of the tabletop, it is necessary to make support legs. To do this, you can use 40*40 mm wooden beams or steel corners. To improve stability, stiffening ribs are attached between the legs. The saw control unit should be located near the workplace. An RCD and fuses must be installed in case the maximum load of the electric motor is exceeded.


A stationary circular saw is an essential tool in a carpentry workshop - for those who perform carpentry work for their own needs or make various items to order. This stationary machine is easy to use – especially long and monotonous ones. With it, the master’s back is in a straight position, so he gets less tired.

Today, in stores, machines and tools are presented in a huge selection of models. However, they are too expensive for a simple carpenter, so to get out of the situation you have to look for other solutions. One such example is when a craftsman made a stationary saw with his own hands using a hand-held circular saw. Let's see below how he did it.

List of required materials:
hand-held circular saw;
plywood 11 mm;
M-8 bolts with a furniture head;
screws;
switch;
the wire;
timber 40x40;
furniture guides.

List of tools:
electric jigsaw;
hand-held circular saw;
drill;
screwdriver;
hammer;
screwdriver;
pliers;
ruler.

How to assemble a stationary circular saw

As we have already noted, the author used a manual circular saw to make his circular saw. At the same time, he made no changes to the design of the saw itself. In this case, the master made a table, attached the sole of the saw to the bottom of the tabletop - where the cut for the disk was made before. He drilled the holes and then sawed them. Taking plywood and 40x40 timber, I made a base.


After that, the author took plywood and cut out the tabletop. It is better that it is laminated or varnished, with a flat and smooth surface. As described, a cut was made, and holes were drilled in the corners for subsequent fastenings.


At the bottom of the tabletop we attach the circular saw using M-8 bolts. In this case, the bolt heads must be recessed into the plywood.


The author installed and connected the switch, fixed the start button on the saw in the pressed position, and connected the switch to the outlet. Therefore, there is no need to disassemble the saw, and there is no need to connect anything to it.


To make it more convenient to work with the machine, the craftsman made a movable stop on furniture guides.


The aluminum corner served as a longitudinal stop.


To adjust it, you should loosen the bolts and move it to the distance required for further work.

A circular saw is specialized equipment that is used for cutting wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary sawing installation can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself, you will need the most common metalworking tools and the skill to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will cost.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large volumes of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is presented in the diagram below. It also indicates main installation dimensions, which are recommended to be used as a starting point for self-assembly.

In the drawing, the numbers correspond to the following structural elements of homemade equipment:

  • 1 – frame (bed);
  • 2 – side panel;
  • 3 – starting device;
  • 4 – mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 – its stops;
  • 5, 6 and 7 – two halves of the sawing table with a base;
  • 8 – electric motor;
  • 9 – platform for installing the motor;
  • 10 – studs (M10);
  • 11 – saw;
  • 12 – shaft;
  • 14 and 16 – driven and driven pulleys, respectively;
  • 15 – belt;
  • 17 – switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a visible place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large in size.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to secure a drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot of the appropriate size in the table for it. This will allow you to expand the functionality of the created installation: plan lumber on it, chamfer and select a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations using homemade equipment, it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with several guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, it should also be possible to regulate the speed of the electric motor and quickly replace disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and parts

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, you should select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to start from old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for making a bed with a table

To make a bed (frame) you can use channel or metal corners(sizes from 25×25 mm to 50×50 mm are sufficient). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. The legs of the machine will use water pipes or profile metal pipes.

Advice! Frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because bolted connections unwind under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also necessary to weld spacers at the corners to impart rigidity to the structure. To make it easier to move the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a table for a circular saw: resistance to mechanical influences (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties characterize sheets of the following materials:

  • become;
  • duralumin;
  • silumin;
  • PCB;
  • moisture-resistant plywood;
  • organic glass.

If you use moisture resistant plywood, then it should first be covered with zinc-coated sheet metal. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration influences.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or becomes distorted due to deflection, the disk may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

To carry out various work (for example, cutting logs into boards), you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as a guide bar for a hand-held circular saw: it ensures even sawing of lumber. Moreover, its use makes it possible to obtain workpieces of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed using clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Selection of engine and starting equipment

The easiest way to use a drive for the considered version of a homemade circular machine is single phase electric motor. Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

  • if it is 350 mm, then for normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
  • for a disk with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is sufficient.

In the latter case, you can make a drive mechanism from an engine from an automatic washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For disks with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit is suitable. It should be secured firmly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibration by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly oscillate.

You can also equip homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors into the electrical circuit. It should also be taken into account that the engine power will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk jams. It is better to install the protection in a separate electrical panel attached to the side panel of the machine on the convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires do not short-circuit to the frame of a homemade circular electric saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, the electrical part must be well protect from getting wet. The simplest thing is to cover the installation with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Gear, shaft and disc

To transfer rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. The use of gears is not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear drive, due to its rigidity, can cause failure of the entire drive unit.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, you can change the speed of the disk and install different types on the machine. This is true if there is no motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing It is better to entrust it to a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Moreover, when you plan to make a circular electric saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a plane. But the simplest option is to buy a ready-made factory-produced part. A sample of it is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular saw It’s easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is one of balancing. An imbalance of the saw during operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If you have a circular saw for wood, you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the disk corresponds to the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber: for example, for 100 mm logs you will need to use a saw measuring approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement not only leads to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of a woodworking machine according to the drawing given earlier is carried out in the following sequence:

  • a rectangular frame is made from the corners;
  • four legs are welded to it at the corners of the required height;
  • at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a binding from the corners;
  • a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
  • fix the driven pulley on one side and the disk on the other;
  • a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
  • on the lower frame they make a platform from corners or sheet metal for the electric motor;
  • the drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
  • put the belt on the pulleys;
  • On and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted on the side panel of the unit;
  • using wires of a suitable cross-section, connect the elements of the electrical circuit of the equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
  • supply power to the machine from a stationary network.

The final stage is checking the functionality of the assembled equipment. First, you should make sure that all moving parts rotate freely: to do this, simply twist the drive pulley by hand. After which you can start the unit in test mode. If strong vibration is detected, you will need to check the reliability of the bolted connections and fixation of the disk.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or a solid one. In the latter case, you will need to cut a rectangular slot in it for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. This video also demonstrates the design of the lifting mechanism for these parts.

Important! To prevent the possibility of the saw jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be located at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To regulate belt tension, the electric motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is by creating larger slots than required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes should be carried out in the direction of belt tension.

If you completely follow the drawing, you will need to make a more complex belt tensioning mechanism. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor using studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, there is no need to install a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter). But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also additionally recommended to install a residual current device or differential circuit breaker in the panel. These measures will protect against electric shock if the machine body is energized, for example, due to breakdown of wire insulation. It is better to select components for the electrical part of a circular saw so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment components will help you easily replace failed parts.